Fascia Board Rot in Florida: Causes, Repairs & Real-World Cost Ranges

Florida’s heat, humidity, salt air, and sudden downpours are hard on exterior trim. Nowhere shows that wear faster than the fascia board—the horizontal trim behind your gutters and along your eaves. When fascia rots, gutters loosen, water backs up into the soffit, and moisture can reach the roof deck and walls. This guide explains why fascia rots in Florida, how pros diagnose the damage, repair vs. replace options, and typical 2025 cost ranges you can expect.

What the Fascia Actually Does

Structural backing for gutters: Hidden hangers and spikes fasten into the fascia.
Weather edge for the roof: Works with drip edge and underlayment to shed water.
Aesthetic finish: Clean, straight lines at the roof perimeter.

If the fascia softens or decays, fasteners lose bite, gutters sag, and overflow gets worse—accelerating the rot cycle.

Why Fascia Rots in Florida

Gutter overflow & leaks: Undersized or clogged gutters spill over the front, saturating the board.
Missing or short drip edge/apron: Water wraps back under the shingles/metal and soaks the fascia.
Wind-driven rain: Tropical bands force water up under the eave and into seams.
High humidity & shade: Slow drying on north and tree-shaded sides.
Coastal salt air: Corrodes cheap fasteners and coatings, opening the door to moisture.
Failed paint/caulk: UV and heat crack coatings; unsealed end grain drinks water.
Improper hanger fasteners: Plain steel screws rust and expand, splitting wood fibers.

Signs Your Fascia Is Failing

Wavy or washboard gutter lines; visible sag at hangers
Peeling paint, swollen boards, or black/mildew staining at edges
Soft spots when probed with a screwdriver (never force—just test gently)
Nail heads weeping rust or pulling through the face
Gutter leaks at fasteners, miters, or outlet seams directly over soft fascia
Critter entry at gaps between fascia and soffit

Quick Inspection Checklist (Homeowner Friendly)

Sight down the eave: Any dips where downspouts or long runs converge?
Touch test: Lightly press below gutter hangers—spongy = likely rot.
Look under the lip: With a flashlight, check behind the gutter for dark, crumbly wood.
Check corners/valleys: Rot concentrates where roof planes dump water.
Confirm metal edge: Verify a drip edge or gutter apron overlaps the back of the gutter.

If you find multiple soft sections or a long sagging run, plan for replacement rather than spot patching.

Repair Options (Good → Better → Best)

Spot Repair (Small Areas)

Scope: Cut out isolated bad sections (1–4 ft), splice in new primed board.
Pros: Lowest cost, minimal disruption.
Cons: Can miss hidden damage; seams every few feet aren’t ideal in storm zones.
Typical Use: Early-stage rot at one corner or below a leak.

Partial Run Replacement (Targeted Sides)

Scope: Replace longer sections on one or two elevations; address cause (gutter leak, drip edge).
Pros: Eliminates seams across worst exposures; resets gutter fasteners into sound backing.
Cons: Color/paint blend needed; may reveal soffit issues.
Typical Use: South/west exposures or valley sides that repeatedly overflow.

Full Perimeter Replacement (Best for Long-Term)

Scope: Replace all fascia on the home; install drip edge/gutter apron, rehang gutters, upgrade fasteners.
Pros: Clean, continuous lines; strongest base for gutters; uniform coating and hardware.
Cons: Highest upfront cost; may uncover soffit/rafter repairs.
Typical Use: Widespread decay, multiple leaks, or when upsizing to 7″ gutters.

Material Choices (Florida-Savvy)

Primed Pine or SPF (budget): Cost-effective; must be sealed on all sides and ends; repaint more often.
Cypress/Redwood (better wood): More rot resistant; harder to source; higher cost.
PVC/Composite Fascia (premium): Won’t rot; excellent for coastal humidity; paint optional; needs proper fastening and expansion gaps.
Fiber-Cement Trim: Stable, paintable, rot-proof; heavier; predrill and use corrosion-resistant fasteners.
Aluminum Fascia Wrap: Metal cladding over sound wood; great protection only if base is healthy. Never wrap rotten wood.

Fasteners: Stainless or high-grade coated screws—avoid plain steel in Florida, especially near the coast.

The Right Way to Fix Fascia (Process Overview)

Protect & prep: Remove gutter run or loosen hangers; set up safe access.
Demo & inspect: Cut out damaged sections; probe rafter tails/soffit for hidden decay.
Treat and seal: If minor staining remains on solid wood, apply a borate treatment; prime/seal new boards on all faces and cut ends.
Install new fascia: Straight lines, tight joints, proper scarf splices where needed.
Add edge metal: Install drip edge or gutter apron that laps over the gutter back to prevent wrap-under.
Rehang gutters: Prefer hidden hangers into framing, tighter spacing at corners/outlets; correct pitch (⅛″–¼″ per 10′).
Upgrade capacity if needed: Consider 7″ seamless gutters + 3×4 downspouts on storm-side runs.
Seal & coat: Storm-grade sealant at joints; quality exterior paint/finish for UV and salt air.

Real-World Cost Ranges in Florida (2025)

Pricing varies by height, access, length, material, and whether gutters/soffits also need work. Ranges below are for typical single-family homes.

Fascia Only (wood replacement):

Spot repairs (small sections): $12–$22/linear ft
Partial sides: $18–$32/linear ft
Full perimeter (wood): $20–$38/linear ft

Fascia—Premium Materials:

PVC/composite fascia: $28–$48/linear ft
Fiber-cement trim: $26–$44/linear ft
Aluminum wrap (over sound wood): $10–$20/linear ft add-on to prep

Common Add-Ons:

Drip edge/gutter apron install: $3–$6/linear ft
Soffit repairs (localized): $15–$30/linear ft
Rafter tail sistering (as needed): $75–$200 per location
Gutter rehang/rehab: typically included when replacing runs
New gutters (installed): 6″ $6–$10/lf, 7″ $8–$14/lf

If rot is widespread and gutters are undersized, a bundle price to replace fascia + drip edge + new 7″ seamless gutters can be more economical than piecemeal repairs.

DIY vs. Pro: What to Consider

DIY-friendly: Small, low eave spots with clear access and limited damage.
Pro-only: Second stories, complex corners/valleys, soffit/rafter repairs, or when rehanging long gutter runs and correcting pitch.
Warranty & safety: Pro installs include workmanship warranty and proper ladder/scaffold safety.

How to Keep Fascia From Rotting Again

Size for storms: Use 7″ gutters + 3×4 downspouts on long/valley eaves to prevent spillover.
Edge control: Always include drip edge/gutter apron lapped over the gutter back.
Clean & inspect: Clear outlets before rainy season; verify slope and hanger tightness.
Coatings matter: Seal all faces and cut ends; use UV-stable paint and maintain caulk joints.
Hardware upgrade: Stainless or high-grade coated screws; avoid dissimilar metal contact that can corrode fasteners.
Vegetation: Trim back trees that keep eaves wet and dump debris.

FAQs

Can I just wrap bad fascia with aluminum?
No. Wrapping traps moisture in rotten wood and speeds failure. Replace damaged wood first, then wrap if desired.

Do I need to replace gutters when I replace fascia?
Not always, but if gutters are undersized, leaking at seams, or sagging, rehanging or upgrading during fascia work is cost-effective.

What if only the corners are bad?
Corners and valley terminations see the most water. You can replace those sections, but check long runs for hidden softness before deciding.

Is PVC fascia worth it near the coast?
Yes. PVC/composite resists rot and humidity extremely well. Use stainless fasteners and allow for expansion gaps.

Will insurance cover fascia rot?
Typically considered maintenance, not a covered peril. Storm damage may be different—ask your carrier.

Get Fascia Fixed Right—And Built to Last

Stop the cycle of soft boards and sagging gutters with Florida-ready materials, edge metal, and storm-rated hardware. Schedule a thorough assessment to uncover hidden rot, correct the cause, and install a long-term solution.

Call SunLife Gutters & Homes at (813) 727-0913 for a free on-site evaluation and written estimate.

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